Hvar seems to be the preferred Croatian holiday destination of the rich. Not because it's a beautiful, peaceful place to relax and unwind after months of working hard for all those millions, but because it's the perfect picturesque backdrop for showing off just how much money you have in the bank. The harbour of Hvar town is crammed with yachts; most bigger than your average detached family home, and some so big they defy description. Every champagne bottle corked on the decks of each luxury yacht seemed to pop with an exclamation of "Look at me! Look how rich I am!" It isn't a quiet, restrained kind of showiness that prevails in Hvar, but a rowdy, screaming exhibitionism that slaps you in the face and has you reaching for a lottery ticket.
Despite the obvious financial gulf between my boyfriend and I and the owner of 90m long Ecstasea, Hvar was one of my favourite places. Once you've adapted to your relative status of impoverishment, there's the realisation that everyone is there to have a good time, and everyone is having a good time. Not to mention, it's beautiful.
our room in Gueshouse M (how cool is the light!?)
We stayed in Guesthouse M, which was a little way away from the main harbour, but we had a lovely room and the owner, Suzana, was so hospitable and chirpy, and even picked us up from the bus station herself, free of charge. Plus, our distance from the main harbour meant close proximity to a beautiful little beach that was much less crowded.
Most days, however, we ventured further than the little beach and often found ourselves seeking refreshment and refuge from the sun in beach bars. My absolute favourite was Falko bar, for its laid back, bohemian feel, hammocks strung up between trees, the good music and the way they cut a hole in the lid of my ice tea for the straw. The adorable dog running around was the icing on the cake. It is quite a walk away from the harbour though; it's the type of place that pops up on the horizon just as you're about to give up looking for it, but that didn't seem to have dented its popularity.
Splash bar is slightly closer to town and slightly less rough around the edges, which in my eyes gives it less character and charm than Falko, but the trees surrounding the tables gave it a nice feel. Sitting amongst the trees, looking out at the sea with a giant mug of beer in hand is definitely an enjoyable way to while out an afternoon.